Suspension upgrades?

Come here to discuss the performance side of our vehicles.
User avatar
jlaine
Posts: 18345
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 1999 1:00 pm
Location: Ely, Mn
Contact:

Postby jlaine » Tue Jun 18, 2002 11:33 pm

I've done frame-up restorations on firebirds and the like, I know suspensions in and out pretty well, so how they work with my car is not a big concern, but I need to make sure you are basing your judgement on at least a fairly similar vehicle. I have the ability to impliment whatever is decided is best, so long as I get help in deciding, as I haven't been "in the loop" for about 5 years. I don't have a spring compressor anymore though... :(

Decision between 1/4 mile times and handling? No contest... handling over drag... :)

Personal opinion for me is that the suspension comes prior to the excessively expensive tires, the radials I have on now grab hard and work well, they are a rather agressive BF goodrich tire that seems to work well for cornering, but not the greatest for straightaway power applications.
Yo.
User avatar
nismo
Posts: 6120
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2001 1:00 pm
Location: Greenwood, IN
Contact:

Postby nismo » Tue Jun 18, 2002 11:41 pm

well, i think as far as the agx's go, the best part is that you can make them do whatever you want. they will go from soft to harder than you would wanna run on the street :)

eric
User avatar
Sound_Miata
Posts: 5052
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2000 12:00 pm
Location: From the secret hideout of the VAST right wing conspiracy
Contact:

Postby Sound_Miata » Wed Jun 19, 2002 12:01 am

for the F-body the best results I have seen are actually Koni applications.

http://www.koni.com/_cars/_sport/afram.html

I have driven many many different cars (from heavier fords to lightweight racer) and I've always been satisfied. Koni's are top flight, and sometimes the price reflects it. With springs, H&R is a good brand, but again I believe Eibach is a more proven name in the race arena, I personally run Koni/Eibach coilover setup.

Advantages of Koni over AGX's/Bilsteins (not my fav)
1)More adjustability (knob adjustment instead of 8 points with the AGX's, Bilsteins not adjustable at all)
2)better warranty service, having worked with warranty returns, this I can guarantee....if buying a used set you can send one off to koni, they can examine and test it and tell you how much longer to expect them to last. Last set we tested they told us "more than a typical cars life" the number associated was 225K Miles!!!! Bilstein is very very very slow in their work, and take forever
3)Upgradeability, Konis can be revalved for even firmer applications and ultimate race apps as well if you start with the sport models.
4)Bilsteins tend to ride very very firm, while that can be nice, long distance really suffers
5)Some cars are coming with non adjustable agx's (mitsu eclipse for instance), so the adjustable isn't a huge upgrade, but the Konis are.


As for going with stiffer bushings, they squeak and won't provide the immediate bonus that shock/spring combo would (cost is very pricey as well)

As for other "cheap" tricks I know you could do. Weld up subframe braces, or make thicker ones to replace your current ones, as well as boxing in the A-arms up front or adding bracing in the rear (or boxing in current bracing for stiffness) this will give the car less "float" in the corners.

Sway bars, again I'm going to have to recommend Eibach for this as well, there are probably multiple bars available, and you will have to be careful, to stiff and you can promote understeer (when you turn the wheel and the car just doesn't turn) or too soft in the rear bar and you can cause oversteer (see tail happy donuts kinda thing)

-Greer
*Winner of the Beastly 1000th AND 2000th Post*
slappin momma llama on the backside-Joshie-Poo :-D

Vendors: We will allow you to break the laws of physics and the second law of thermodynamics so long as you provide us with a working model.
User avatar
the shue
Posts: 230
Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2000 12:00 am
Location: Cape Cod, Ma.

Postby the shue » Wed Jun 19, 2002 5:39 am

i don't know much about firechickens:) but i found this site, they have some package deals on suspensions, and various other things, here.

matt
2006 Ford F150 KR supercab
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X889
Infinity Kappa 682.7cf
Infinity Kappa 255A (not installed)
MTX Audio 4500 thunderform (not installed)
User avatar
n0ph0bia
Posts: 1493
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2001 11:00 pm
Location: MN

Postby n0ph0bia » Thu Jun 20, 2002 7:50 pm

hmmm I have never used Koni's, but I like what you are saying....

maybe its time for an upgrade myself....

thanks
User avatar
rthompson
Posts: 3210
Joined: Sun Dec 19, 1999 12:00 am
Location: Warroad, MN
Contact:

Postby rthompson » Wed Jun 26, 2002 12:51 pm

Brakes can do wonders for lap times and the handling feel.
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/headline.asp?hid=G19AB29217

Here are some other F Body related suspension parts if someone wants to look through and see if there is something that you would like to recommend.
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/section.asp?section=Suspension/Chassis&sid=G18
Duffman says a lot of things... oh yeah!!

"Don't think about greasy pork......" Jakezor
User avatar
josh99ta
Posts: 6361
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 1:00 pm
Location: Nashville, TN
Contact:

Postby josh99ta » Wed Jun 26, 2002 10:52 pm

I'll give you a few "set in stone" suspension mods to do, and the rest is up to you.

SUBFRAME CONNECTORS!!! Go with the Kenny Brown Double Diamonds from http://www.tbyrne.com Best hands down
Springs: LG Motorsports G2 Super Springs ( http://www.lgmotorsports.com )
Shocks: Koni or Bilstein, maybe even HAL ( see http://www.tbyrne.com for HAL stuff)
Strut Tower Brace: Go with Hotkis if money allows, if not go BMR ( both at http://www.tbyrne.com I believe)
Adjustable Panhard Rod: Anything adjustable will work, BMR is nice

Other things to look into (If money is no issue, Global West and Suspension Techniques are the best with LG Motorsports close behind then BMR):
Lower Control arms (get spherical rod ends if possible, if not get poly/rubber NOT POLY/POLY, it will bind)
Lower control arms relocation brackets (anythign will do, BMR is good for this)
Sway bars front and rear, go GW or ST if possible, it not LG is great

All that will get you a great handling car, and of course some great tires. The Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 tires from http://www.tirerack.com are highly recommended for handling as well as the BFG Comp T/A KDW tires. After those things it's all in the hands of the driver :)

Oh yeah, if you REALLY want to spend, look into an adjustable a-arm and tubular front K-member. All this will take ALOT of weight off the front of the car and make it more neutral. Be prepared to spend if you decide to go this far though. Hope all this helped Josh. Later man.
2006 Pontiac GTO :: Stock and Staying That Way
1999 Pontiac Trans Am :: Gone but Not Forgotten
User avatar
josh99ta
Posts: 6361
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 1:00 pm
Location: Nashville, TN
Contact:

Postby josh99ta » Wed Jun 26, 2002 10:55 pm

Oh and for brakes, don't worry about steel braided lines (just increase pedal pressure, no real benefit) or slotted/cross drilled rotors, all that is driveway jewelry. Look into the C5 brake adapters from http://www.nashvillespeed.com first off, they come highly recommended by some of the very best drivers out there. Or just get a set of Baer brakes with blank rotors and some good pads. Either way it'll be enough for your car, but be aware that most require a 17" wheel or larger to clear.
2006 Pontiac GTO :: Stock and Staying That Way

1999 Pontiac Trans Am :: Gone but Not Forgotten
User avatar
Sound_Miata
Posts: 5052
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2000 12:00 pm
Location: From the secret hideout of the VAST right wing conspiracy
Contact:

Postby Sound_Miata » Thu Jun 27, 2002 12:04 am

actually when at the track, slotted or crosdrilled can aide greatly in cooling and keeping rotor temps down, helping to keep the fluid from the boiling point and pades from starting to fade as fast.

-Greer
*Winner of the Beastly 1000th AND 2000th Post*

slappin momma llama on the backside-Joshie-Poo :-D



Vendors: We will allow you to break the laws of physics and the second law of thermodynamics so long as you provide us with a working model.
User avatar
josh99ta
Posts: 6361
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2002 1:00 pm
Location: Nashville, TN
Contact:

Postby josh99ta » Thu Jun 27, 2002 3:05 pm

I respectfully disagree. The main purpose of slotted and cross drilled rotors are to release gas buildup, which with todays pad materials it's not even an issue. I doubt you'll see the benefit in cooling, you can more than make up for it by making some ducts that direct air to the brakes. Cross drilled rotors tend to crack when very hot as well. A blank rotor gives the pad more surface to bite onto and if they are good brakes fade will not be an issue regardless. Like I said its driveway jewelry, not saying I don't like it, just if you want to get "serious" don't bother with it. I'll probably wind up with some nice looking slotted rotors on my car one day, or most likely I'll just get blanks and paint my calipers for the "flash" I want.
2006 Pontiac GTO :: Stock and Staying That Way

1999 Pontiac Trans Am :: Gone but Not Forgotten

Return to “Automotive Performance”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest