Electrical Question ?

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TBass

Postby TBass » Fri Nov 05, 1999 2:13 pm

Yeah I am going to try to hook up different subs, but at a much lower ohm to see if it shuts off. or something like that. I shouldn't of sent out the other sub yet, I should of kept it and see if it does that to the other sub. I am going to work on some stuff this weekend and see where that problem is coming from, Could it also be the speaker connector on the box, maybe if they are kind of loose, would it cause this type of problem, hey guys thanks for all the info, I think you guys should write the FAQ section on this site Image But I will make sure that this post is somewhere in that section. I really like the comments given. Feed me some more. haha
TBass

Postby TBass » Fri Nov 05, 1999 4:16 pm

OK I just got a Volt, ohm tester, and this is what I got.

I first tested the sub, it suppose to be 6ohms, at first when I connected it, the numberst were going crazy from 2 ohm all the way up to 10 ohms, but then I firmly pressed, and it was moving from 5.8 ohms to 6.2 ohms, but the system was not playing at the time, then I tested the battery in front, it read 13.4 volts up front, and then played my system and it droped to 13.2 volts, then I tested the voltage right at the amp, the power inputs, and it was 13.6 volts, and when I played the system, it dropped down to 12 volts. but during the testing for some reason the smp didn't shut off. weird, don't know maybe cause the trunk was opened? OK guys what do you think, change the ground spot? I remember at first my ground spot was different, then I changed it, but it didn't do that till now, So what are your next suggestions,

Thanks
T-Bass
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jlaine
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Postby jlaine » Fri Nov 05, 1999 7:31 pm

First Q, did you test the sub while connected to the amp? If so you need to go back and do it again... I wouldn't think anything of your trunk at this time, but you had mentioned getting rid of one of the subs (??) I am not sure there but to continue on, if your voltage is under 14 when the car is running you either have a regulator problem, or your alternator is about to go... Hitting 12V at the amp is not healthy for the car, but your amp should function without any problems. Even with the sub connected the reading you got was healthy, so we might be able to count that out. (Not yet though..!) After you tested it you said it worked well in your car provided the trunk was open. Did you try shutting the trunk while the amp was on and running? What happened? I know this isn't what we are on right now, but you need to beef up your electrical system soon... I am assuming you tried to run it with the trunk closed afterwards... What happened? Your setup, how many amps are you running and how are you turning them on? If you have more than two it is generally a good idea to run a relay before the remote inputs of the amplifiers, mainly because the little switching transistor inside the head unit is not designed for much more than 100mA. This is going to sound strange, but try to get your amp to quit, then do not restore the power, but run and check the amp. Is the remote on light lit? Protection circuits tripped? Check voltage to inputs, and check the voltage from your remote in while you are at it. For right now I would let your ground be, I don't think that is the problem from what I can see. But it won't hurt to check it, make sure there is no corrosion, and that it is FIRMLY anchored to the car. Let us know what happens, I will be watching, good luck!
TBass

Postby TBass » Fri Nov 05, 1999 7:41 pm

i am going to check what you told me when I get off work in 20 minutes, My remote wire, that could be on thing maybe, I'll check it out, Right now I have 3 things that are being turned on by the remote, one is the high/mids amp, and second is the sub amp, which I am having the problems with, and last is the power cap, I have no idea why there is a remote input for the power cap but there is, it's a digital 2 farad Direct connections cap, cost me a few bucks too. I am going to try to disconnect something like one remote wire and see if that is the problem, but considering that it was working fine, why all of a sudden that is the problem? Does the power on the remote wire change when you adjust the volume? I will let you know more in like 1 hour what happened. Thanks again for following up all the time.

T-Bass
TBass

Postby TBass » Fri Nov 05, 1999 9:50 pm

Hey what's up, I was messing around with all the gains and bass EQ on my amp, My amp has 2 gain controls, one for the left and one for the right, and since it's bridged, it must be set equally, do you think if it's not set equally the amp will shut off or make a chuck sound. Well I really really lowered the gains, to almost zero, and still it did it, and then I lowered the bass eq a tidy wit, and it stoped, but still I have the gain controls low, I think there is something wrong with the bass EQ, or the gains are not set equally, any advice on this, right now the amp doesn't shut off anymore. So far I am happy, and since I lowered the gains alot, I raised the 50hz on my EQ to +4 and 100hz to +2, where it was set on 2 for 50hz, and 1 on 100hz. OK guys, it seems fine now, and thank you for all your help, but any last words or comments would be great.

Thanks
T-Bass
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jlaine
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Postby jlaine » Fri Nov 05, 1999 10:03 pm

First I have to say sorry, I gave you a bogus web page, I meant to give you this one: www.reman.com that is the site of the people I deal with when I need any help with an alternator just go to electrical in texas, alterstart is the name of the company... Second, unless you have separate gains on your amp for left and right?? There is something strange here? How does your bridge configuration work? Is it a 4 channel bridged into 2 or a 2 bridged into 1? If you have 2 gain controls you should have a 4 channel amp correct? One gain set for the front and one for the rear... Anyway I would have thought that your gain should be low anyways, you always want the gain on your amps to be as low as possible to get the max s/n ratio, and in most cases they never need to be turned up more than a quarter of the way, and with the eq boosting the signal before the amp you should not need it up at all, so you may have just stumbled across your problem. Keep it cranking and let us know how it all works out, and I am interested in your amp configuration... if your willing to tell? Keep rockin, and may the bass be with you... Image

[This message has been edited by jlaine (edited 11-05-1999).]
TBass

Postby TBass » Sat Nov 06, 1999 2:07 am

My amp is the RF Power 500.2 (1998 model) it's a 2 channel amp, with left and right gain controls, since my amp is bridged, I have to set the left and right equally if you know what I'm saying. The system sounds ok now, the bass is very low, but clear, since my highs are really over powering the bass, I can't hear the bass much on some songs, but I can feel it. I am just going to live with it for now till my other sub comes back. I played the system more today, and the amp didn't shut off, so I guess it's cool for now, and my lights doesn't dim anymore, weird, anyway thanks again, but I will look into getting a new alternator. Do you recommend the link you gave me more than stinger or other alternators? Let me know. Wow this has been a very long topic for only 2 people.

T-Bass
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Big Mack
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Postby Big Mack » Sat Nov 06, 1999 3:07 am

I cannot believe that I didn't think of this before, but what the heck kind of sub are you running that is 6 ohms? If it's a JL Audio DVC and your amp is bridged, you're either at 3 ohms mono or 12. There are no 2 ways about it. If you have a single 6 ohm speaker that is a SVC, then you're ok. You might want to take the bass EQ out of the signal chain and see if it's adding a problem that you don't need. The best way of trouble shooting is to start with the most basic system you can, and add components until you get a problem. This eliminates all components before you add that one, and will make 'shooting your system much easier. You will definitely want to run a relay to turn on your system. The turn on lead can be affected by volume as the HU tries to send more power to both the internal amplifier and the RCA outputs. If you have nothing hooked to the internal, it makes it a little easier. The reason that your cap has a turn on is because of the digital display. If it didn't have a turn on, the display would stay on all the time, and over a period of time would start to wear down your car. Now, onto another problem. You said that the voltage at the amp is 13.2. That's decent. Now, you also said that it drops to 12 V. This leads me to believe that your ground is definitely defective. Providing that you have adequately sized cable (4 ga is usually a very good way to just start off, saving reinstallation time later), your power should never drop a full volt, much less more than a volt. You have a significant voltage drop, which in turn makes your amp try to draw more current at higher volumes, which will turn on the protection circuits, and cut your amp off at the knees. I would reground the amps, checking the voltage with your meter. Check the resistance as well. Make sure that you scrape the paint and use a starwasher under the terminal that you are using for your cable. Other than that, check the voltage with the car on, and, if you haven't done it already, upgrade the ground under your hood to at least 4 ga. If you don't know, power does not flow from positive to negative. It flows from negative to positive. Car stereo review did a good write up on this several issues ago. Try these and let us know. I'm still concerned about the sub. One last thing-- unless you know that the sub is the problem, don't swap anything out yet. It could be the bass EQ, and adding another sub or a different set altogether is just going to complicate matters. Break it down and check everything. Believe me, it might take a while, but we'll get this system up and running.
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jayb
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Postby jayb » Sat Nov 06, 1999 3:52 am

i think he has a pair of 8812.6 subs. 6 ohm svc.

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jlaine
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Postby jlaine » Sat Nov 06, 1999 1:16 pm

If he has dual six ohm subs paralleled... that is a total of 3 ohms, you might be getting too little of a load for your amp there, you had better check what your amp is stable at in bridged mode... I would have to recommend a relay also, they are inexpensive, and a very safe investment. Now your ground might be inadequate, if you read 12 V at your amp, but in order for that to be true you should also get a higher reading at your battery, perhaps in the 13V range that you were talking about before you had started. This means your amp is suffocating itself because there is a power restriction somewhere, but it should still operate. You need some work on your electrical for sure, and have you upgraded your factory ground up front? That is a must, most manufacturers use 8 ga, with an extremely small thread count, which is fine to operate the vehicle, but for aftermarket stereos it just won't cut it. As for my power requirements, from the alternator to the battery I ran 2/0 gauge welding lead, and from the battery to my amps I have 4 gauge, I ran such a large lead from my alternator because you have to think of the power demands of your car also. It is still a little overboard, but you can never have too large of a conductor. I have metered my car's power demand, which consists of my 200DHC MK2, Infinity 100a2 and Infinity 50a4 - and my max draw was around 125 amps, that is through a 4 ga cable, but you have to think that that 125 amps has to go through the alternator cable also, and you still have to feed your running car...I just finished brushing up on RF amps, and if you are running 2 6 ohm speakers in parallel which make the amp "see" 3 ohms, and also bridging the amp you are below the advised rating for that amplifier, they recommend 4 ohms minimum, so you might want to consider a different configuration... On my alternator, I chose them because I wanted a semi-stock appearance under the hood, and they could offer me one in my factory casing... All I can say is that they worked with me a great deal, the end decision is yours. Since you are running a RF amp, and they are overload protected, you may be suffering from a combination of too low of an impedance and not enough available current, so you will want to trace your ground, get your initial resistance up to 4 ohms, and try your amp again. Don't just settle for alright my man, we can figure this thing out. Good luck and keep us posted.

[This message has been edited by jlaine (edited 09-20-2000).]

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