Speaker suggestions

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KU40
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Postby KU40 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:20 am

The ford 5x7 hole can fit some smaller 6.5's but you can only get 2 screws in and there's obviously not an airtight seal around the speaker to make it really IB (translation- not as good sound, mostly in the midbass region). I could mount my dad's Kenwoods like that. My JL XR's were too big to fit in the hole, though, so what I did was cut out some wooden pieces in the shape of the factory 5x7 plus about 1/4" all the way around. Then I cut the hole for my new speaker out of the middle of that and used that as a baffle to seal off the hole with the new speaker. All you need is a jigsaw. You will also have to indent the screws that hold the baffle to the door because the new speaker will want to go over those screws, but it will not be airtight against the baffle if those screws are just surface mounted.
-Nick aka NS1 aka mopey aka speedbump
Alpine CDA-9827
Crossfire CFQ5.2
JL Audio XR 650csi components, Planet Audio TT2300
Crossfire VR404 on factory rear 6x8's until I get them upgraded
SI 15D2 + 3.8 @ 30 hz + Crossfire BMF 1000D = :)
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todd.brust
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Postby todd.brust » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:08 am

KU40 wrote:The ford 5x7 hole can fit some smaller 6.5's but you can only get 2 screws in and there's obviously not an airtight seal around the speaker to make it really IB (translation- not as good sound, mostly in the midbass region). I could mount my dad's Kenwoods like that. My JL XR's were too big to fit in the hole, though, so what I did was cut out some wooden pieces in the shape of the factory 5x7 plus about 1/4" all the way around. Then I cut the hole for my new speaker out of the middle of that and used that as a baffle to seal off the hole with the new speaker. All you need is a jigsaw. You will also have to indent the screws that hold the baffle to the door because the new speaker will want to go over those screws, but it will not be airtight against the baffle if those screws are just surface mounted.



This method works good. I've had to do this a few times to get 6.5s in 6x9 holes.
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brianhalv
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Postby brianhalv » Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:49 am

X-OvrDistortion wrote:Infinity Kappa's that wont break the bank.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2934

A cute lil amp

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3729

There is $300 there. Then you need to buy wires (power, rca, ground and remote)

Should all be doable with a little left over. The speakers are 5.25's, you might be able to get away with something bigger, like 6.5's. If so, sweet.



For 6.5's. You can go with RE for a little more.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4927

RE is known to put out good stuff.



For wires, look at www.Knukonceptz.com. Good prices and good wire.



Not a CDT fan, but for the money.....hell....hard to go wrong.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5207



I just assume get what for sure will fit, so 5x7 (5.25?) speakers would be what I would get. I like the infinitys you just showed me. My friend has the same thing in his front and said he loves it. I would rather buy a different, cheaper, amp though that would still get the job done (if thats possible).

With the wiring, how is that priced? It says $.89. Is that per foot? Last time I bought wiring it cost like $75.
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todd.brust
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Postby todd.brust » Thu Apr 03, 2008 1:22 pm

I'd say wait to buy anything until you get the car. If something falls through with the car, you don't want to be stuck with a bunch of stuff that you can't use.

As for wiring, it should not cost anywhere near 75 bucks for wiring. 8awg should be fine for a small hour channel amplifier.

Here's a kit for under 20 bucks shipped!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Red-Black-Amplifier-Installation-Kits-8AWG_W0QQitemZ9736668933QQihZ013QQcategoryZ71529QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
The only disadvantage of using one set of RCAs to the amp vs 2 sets(4 channel RCAs) is that you lose your fade control. The way I see it, power, ground and remote wire are just wire. Plain and simple. Cheap RCAs will do fine! Expensive RCAs are just a gimmick.

I would assume that that kit would come with terminals but if not, those could be picked up for less than a few dollars at a local hardware store.

Hope that helps.
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brianhalv
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Postby brianhalv » Thu Apr 03, 2008 2:55 pm

One other thing I was wondering. One of the pre-amp outputs on the back of my HU is blown. When it blew we just unplugged it and put it in the other output. Will that have any effect on anything?
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brianhalv
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Postby brianhalv » Thu Apr 03, 2008 3:03 pm

And yes, that helps. Any advice you guys give helps for that matter. Its much appreciated.
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KU40
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Postby KU40 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:07 pm

that blown output will basically mean you'll have to do what todd suggested and just run one RCA back to the amp and then split it to the two inputs. That is if you only have two outputs on your head unit. if you have three with one for sub, then you can just use the sub one for the sub channel and the other one for the highs, obviously.
-Nick aka NS1 aka mopey aka speedbump

Alpine CDA-9827

Crossfire CFQ5.2

JL Audio XR 650csi components, Planet Audio TT2300

Crossfire VR404 on factory rear 6x8's until I get them upgraded

SI 15D2 + 3.8 @ 30 hz + Crossfire BMF 1000D = :)
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brianhalv
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Postby brianhalv » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:49 pm

Alright so my uncle just gave me these two speakers (I think) that I can't find anywhere online. They are Rockford Fosgate Punch's. They are in a Rockford box, which is how my uncle baught them 4 years ago for $160 dollars. They are 7x7 which seems too small for a sub but too big for a speaker. How can these help me and how can I figure out what they are? I'll post cell phone pictures in a minute.
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nismo
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Postby nismo » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:33 pm

Those are Punch 8's. They're about 10-12 years old. They are indeed subwoofers. I've seen 4" subs, and I've seen 10" mids. It's not about diameter, but design that makes them what they are.

Eric

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