Xj6 rebuild starts tomorrow

Work in progress? Car partially underway? If you want a spot to dedicate to the work this is where you'll want to go.
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flak_monkey
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Postby flak_monkey » Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:05 pm

I have found that I can mount the fans on the outside of the amp rack and still have enough room for the trunk to close. I'm doing that now, then I'll finish wiring it up. I also have just finished running the Knu krystal kable that I ordered and am pleased to report that my head unit still fits in the hole! I am buying some 1/0 kolossus kable from a user off the boards in the morning. Going to redo my big three with that stuff when I get it.
Pics later today.
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Member02
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Postby Member02 » Mon Jan 01, 2007 6:49 pm

dude, I need pics, hehe, sounds like you are getting some professional quality into that, good job!
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flak_monkey
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Postby flak_monkey » Mon Jan 01, 2007 6:53 pm

I friggin need cable tie holders and the stores are closed. Bleh!
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flak_monkey
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Postby flak_monkey » Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:07 pm

I did a nice coat of glass tonight. Now, I HATE wearing things on my face, and I hate things touching my face. I don't like to wear a respirator, but I am dedicated so I wear a full double canister respirator anyhow. I needs teh brain in good shape! So I am wearing this respirator and I cannot get the damn thing off my head! I am also really claustrophobic, so I was freaking the hell out! It took me twenty minutes to get the respirator off of my head.

Also, I needed to move the placement of the "pod" so that the lip of the mounting ring rests softly over my thigh just a little bit instead of wanging me in the freakin knee every time I close the door!

So the door panels won't be identical to the "T" but who cares. Anyway, I'll post some pics when the smell goes away. I also used the dremel with my cutoff wheel to trim the pods into an acceptable shape. Also, my back hurts when I stand up for too long. 21 and I've already got a bad back. But for now, I need a loooooooooooong shower.
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Postby flak_monkey » Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:55 am

Image
Voila! It's neatened up quite a bit, still a little more to go. I need to make the cover, which will only show the pretty parts. I'm thinking of something along these lines, but a bit more related to the art series amps:
Image
I've done work like that before with a jigsaw and dremel out of MDF, and mounting plexi behind it should be cake. We have tons of thin, unused plexiglass at school that should be perfect for this.
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Member02
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Postby Member02 » Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:21 am

you are crazier than I thought :D
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flak_monkey
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Postby flak_monkey » Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:05 pm

don't i know it!
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young_gun
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Postby young_gun » Wed Jan 10, 2007 4:17 pm

Wow, just read all this, you're doing amazing man! That watercooling is sooo cool,lol.
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todd.brust
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Postby todd.brust » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm

thats is impressive......personally i have never seen watercooled amplifiers....i kinda skipped over a lot of the posts in this one and just gazed at the pictures, but how does the watercoling work? do you just run water through the heatsink?
There he goes, one of god's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live... too rare to die.

Novus Ordo Seclorum, The New Forum
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flak_monkey
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Postby flak_monkey » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:42 pm

todd.brust wrote:thats is impressive......personally i have never seen watercooled amplifiers....i kinda skipped over a lot of the posts in this one and just gazed at the pictures, but how does the watercoling work? do you just run water through the heatsink?

well, as you may or may not know, all of the art series amps can be water cooled. The top of the amp is the heatsink like just about every amp. look at the pic of the top of the amp, notice the round, bar like part at the top and bottom? On the back of these are all the transistors (see amp guts pic). Through the bar-like part is a hole that goes all the way through the heat sink. This hole could be optionally tapped by the factory, and new end plates put on the amplifier that had holes. This was because the amp was well designed, but the designers thought that there were some installs that convection cooling would not be sufficient if the amps were mounted horizontally. There are more reasons, but this is the main one as I've been told. One of the problems with this design is that the sensor that sends the amp into protect mode is ALSO mounted on the heatsink. As logical as that seems, with watercooling, this is a bit of an oversight. If the IC's are cooled well enough, the torroidal transformer is neglected in the water cooling loop. Leaving the amp essentially unable to send itself in to protect mode in the event that the toroid gets too hot. I

have fixed this problem in my install by having four fans, each moving 70 cubic feet per minute (two per side), blowing across the amp. The endplates have been removed so that air can enter the side of the amp and flow across the transformer. This will ensure that with an 8 ohm load on the amplifer (however trivial it may seem), it will not overheat with water cooling and the amp will not die. Now, with the addition of a Thermoelectric cooling module, TEC (or peltier), the coolant will be cooled below ambient temperature. This will be important becuase when I get the a1200.2, it will see a four ohm load from my Tumult 15d2 wired in series. The amp will need some sort of additional cooling to help it survive. Remember that these amps are older, SQ class A/B beasts. They were not meant to run low ohm loads and thusly even being used at the lowest load that they are rated for can present a problem. Plus, I had all this water cooling stuff laying around from my last PC that was not going to go into my current workstation. Why let it go to waste?

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