Yep, I'm doing another one, MT 18 as usual!

Work in progress? Car partially underway? If you want a spot to dedicate to the work this is where you'll want to go.
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Member02
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Postby Member02 » Sun Apr 15, 2007 3:58 pm

haha, thanks.

by the sub going forward, I'm hoping you mean to the right? because of depth issues, the sub itself will hang over the edge of the wood frame by several inches. Basically, that Ms paint photo was horrible, it'll be only 4-5inches from the back of the seat.

I have considered porting to the rear, but then I'd have to get more complicated with the fiberglass, I could still do it though. but damn, I'm used to giant ports, and honestly I don't typically even hear port noise. But assuming I do add a port, what kind of size sq inches should I aim for, I like low tuning as you know, but for the hell of it, I'm willing to tune higher than 25hz for once.
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John
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Postby John » Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:19 pm

Member02 wrote:I like low tuning as you know, but for the hell of it, I'm willing to tune higher than 25hz for once.


Go for 30, you probably won't notice...I used to tune my stuff that low, aimed for twenty-ish, and later starting putting it around 30, I didn't notice a real sq difference...It sounded a little different, but was definitely louder.
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Postby Member02 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:15 pm

well, looks like everything's going good.. I really hate this generic cheapo resin, it sucks... waiting for the high quality stuff... hopefully within two days...

anyhow, here's the mold, I checked it out, and noticed some really weak spots even one spot that had holes oing all the way through...

so I marked the weak spots so they'd get extra work this run around.

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and then I went on an did some double layering of fibergass matt in the weak spots.

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Now the box doesn't vary in thickness soo bad, it's all at least 2 layers thick, some spots 3 and 4 layers thick. I'm going to work on the joints tomorrow.

Well, I decided NOT to pay for someone else to make me rings and just get off my lazy ass (money is a great motivator)... I made myself a circle jig, it'll make holes up to 40"s wide, haha...

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and man, oh man, I was happy with these results!!! no more jigsaw in my life ever again! F--- the jigsaw!!!!!!!!!!

I mean, this is like graduating highschool and going to college, I from now on will always hate the jigsaw.

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that's all I had time for today, tomorrow, I'll be widening the recess for the sub to sink into, and rounding off the sides with the router table and a 1" bit.

oh, so you know, those rings have an outer diameter of 21"s and inner diameter of 16.75", pretty wide, except the smaller one on top, it's 16.25", which was an accident but workable as the sink-in ring
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Postby fbi90909 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:10 pm

nice thick rings lol.
the rings do get pretty pricey especially for the diameter size that you made those. sucks for me though cause i don't have a router nor would i want to buy a $60 sheet of mdf to make the rings with. i just have scraps that I'm using that wouldn't make up size.
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Postby Member02 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:18 pm

I bought two 2"x4" MDF sheets for $6.99 each from home depot and a 1/4"thick x 4" x 2' peice of redoak for the homemade circlejig, still have the 16" left over circles in the middle and a 2'x2' square of MDF, figured I'll use them on the EDUH subwoofer box.

I tell you my small powerful portacable rotozip was the best $100 ever spent!

these rings are perfect on the outside! smooth all the way down.
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Postby X-OvrDistortion » Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:42 pm

Good work so far. Now hurry up and finish.
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Postby Member02 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:05 pm

I give it two weeks to paint finishes. unfortunately it's a waiting game for the resin and biaxial cloth
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Postby black00 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:42 pm

one manually manipulated 6 inch pvc into a flare will do ok....aim for 35hz...and don't worry..it will perform lower because the port will be so close to the back hatch it will slow the tuning down the rest of the way......

Yes i meant sub physically rolled to the backseat to give it room...but faced to the passenger side......basically to make room for a port :P
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Postby CBFryman » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:43 pm

To layre quicker, do a layre of 8oz then immedately after (before the resin begins to cure) do another layre of 8oz and agian and agian untill your resin begins to cure. You can even put 3 layres on top of one another and really push the resin into it and it will be plenty strong.

Generic resin? Any resin has to be better than this elmers crap lowes started carrying.

I wonder how the MT will do sealed.
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Postby Member02 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:57 pm

eh, I thinking of taking black's advice, I'm a port whore, everyone knows that, and my smallest port ever made was 45 sq inches for a brahma MKI 12", I'm willing to try something different, besides, putting a port into this will stretch my abilities... I might make it sealed first, then manipulate it into a port.

And I'd buy the flared 6" port, I love those things.

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